Simple, robust meals in neighborhood surroundings. You'll warm to the hearty food and simple decor.

'Gnocchi so light they float off the plate' and 'the perfect tiramisu' are the lure for devotees of this 'charming, intimate' Russian Hill 'goodie' serving some of the 'flat-out best Northern Italian food in SF'; chef/co-owner Aldo Blasi and his 'real Italian' staff make you 'feel like you are in Italy for a couple of hours' (with 'the Duomo just outside the door').

The flavors of Milano's food and the rhythm of the dining room are powerfully reminiscent of the crowded trattorie tucked into the alleys of Italy's big cities.

FOUR STARS. A small, stylish restaurant serving some of the best Northern Italian dishes in town, at moderate prices.